Before you start your collection you first need to do some jewelry research to arm yourself with as much knowledge as possible concerning how to date vintage costume and antique jewelry. This will ensure that you pay the appropriate prices for your jewelry.
There are a few different ways to go about this. To get you started, here is a list of some of the most important considerations to keep in mind when trying to date your vintage and antique jewelry pieces.
Construction
The first step to dating vintage costume and antique jewelry is taking a good long look at each piece. You will need to carefully examine the clasps, the stones, settings and the metals. Believe it or not the back of the piece usually will tell you more than the front.
Earrings
Look at the hardware on earrings to give you dating clues.
- Kidney Wire - in use since 1870
- Fish Hook - used before 1900
- Screwback - patented approximately 1894 and popular until the 50's
- Clip-on - patented approximately 1934 and popular in 50's and 60's
- Screw on stud - used since 1890 but uncommon in modern jewelry
Brooch Hardware
By examining the clasp, hinges and shafts on brooches one can often determine age.
- Tube Hinges - earliest
- Ball Hinges - first used 1890 - still in used
- C clasps - earliest but can still appear on jewelry today
- Safety C clasp: patented in 1901 in full used by 1910 and still in use today
A mid-1800s piece often will have a pin shaft that extents past the edge of the brooch.
Copyright or Patents
Prior to 1956 designers would registered a patent to protect their designs. Some pieces bear a patent date which can be researched to determine it's registration date. After 1956 designers found that registering a copyright was cheaper and just as effective. If a piece of jewelry has the "c" copyright symbol you will know that the piece dates to after 1956.
Styles
It is also important to study the styles of each period to determine age. Art Deco styles included long dangle earrings, diamond tennis bracelets, etc,; dress clips were in style from the 30's but went out in the 50's. Clues like these can be good tell tale ways to date jewelry, so do your homework.
Designer / Makers Mark If a piece of vintage costume jewelry bears a makers mark it may be easier to date the piece of jewelry. Knowing which marks were used during specific years may help you date a signed piece of vintage costume jewelry. Such databases are available online. Another example would be pieces of jewelry marked "Germany" will have been made prior to World War II (unless it is brand new and post re-unification). If the mark is "West or Western Germany" this dates the piece of jewelry to after 1946 (when Germany split into east and west). The same applies to "German Democratic Society" which represents Eastern Germany post WWII. This is just a sampling of the clues that can be obtained from a mark.
Vintage Advertising
Old advertisements are another popular and fun way for you to date vintage jewelry. If you can find pieces of vintage jewelry in an old magazine then you will have a definite date because magazines have a date right there on the cover. You can search old archives for magazines both online and offline, though it is easiest to do online.
Dating your vintage costume and antique jewelry is all about being a good detective. Look at the signatures on the pieces, the fittings and findings, the style and even the fine details like the sizes of claws and the smoothness of the stones and the metal or plastic. These are the things that will help you to determine the true age of your jewelry.
Vintage and Antique Jewelry Research Information
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