One cannot discuss Victorian
Jewelry without indeed mentioning it’s namesake, Britains’ Queen Victoria, who reigned from 1837 to 1901. Queen Victoria had two great loves.
One was her husband and the other was her jewelry. She greatly influenced jewelry styles during
her long reign.
The Victorian period can be
divided into 3 distinct periods; the Romantic, Grand, and Late or Aesthetic
Period.
Romantic (1837 - 1860)
During the early period, romantic
and symbolic pieces were most favored and often included motifs of hearts,
anchors, snakes and crosses. Also
semi-precious gems
including garnets, amethyst, coral, turquoise and seed pearls were highly favored.
Grand (1861 - 1885)
Jewelry from this period was often dramatic
and heavy and included re-interpretations of many ancient, renaissance and
gothic patterns and styles. Gold was most
often used together with colored gemstones and enamel.
Upon the death of Queen Victoria’s husband, Prince Albert (1861) jewelry styles turned much more somber to reflect her
mourning and included jet, onyx and black glass. It also became popular to use the woven hair
of a loved one as a keepsake in mourning jewelry. Eighteen, fifteen, twelve and
nine karat gold were used. Rolled gold, sterling and gold plate were
increasingly used.
Late or
Aesthetic (1880 - 1901)
The jewelry of the late Victorian period once again returned to romanticism with more delicate and whimsical
motifs such as stars, crescent moons, reptiles and insects. The discovery of the diamond mines in South Africa led to the use of mine, rose and cushion cut
diamond stones.
Examples of Victorian Symbolism
- Rubies - passion
- diamond - faithfulness
- emerald - hope
- amethyst - devotion
- pearls - tears
- butterfly - soul
- dogs - fidelity
- wishbone - wish and hope
- ivy - friendship
- lizard - passionate love
- fly - humility
- arrows - love
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